Blog

After having a pastry and coffee in our apartment, we set out towards the soaring Gaudì masterpiece, Sagrada Família. Our first Metro ride wisked us easily from Universitat to Sagrada Família station. Upon exiting the station, we were greeted with the end of a long line…which we soon discovered wrapped around three sides of the church. Not wanting to put off seeing this must-see site, we joined the other eager tourists and patiently waited for an hour and a half…finally gaining entrance and walking in the doors under the Ascension facade. We were immediately faced with the overwhelming genius of Gaudì. The interior is breathtaking with soaring vaults and numerous glass windows bathing the church in light. No dark gothic church here. Gaudì believed in providing light wherever possible. The main interior was only recently finished and consecrated by the Pope in 2010. It was begun in 1882, and has been under construction for 130 years. Presently, only 40% has been completed. Ambitiously, they project completion mid this century. When done, it will soar over many other famous landmark churches in Europe including St. Peters in Rome. Gaudì was deeply religious and intended this church to tell the story of the bible in stone. After marveling at the beauty around us, we ventured to the elevators at our allotted timeslot to ascend to the top of the first completed towers within Gaudì’s lifetime…those capping the Nativity facade. Gaudì intended this faced to show the birth and youth of Jesus, so it was designed to be hopeful and joyous.


As we stepped off the elevator, we understood why time slots were tightly enforced…only a narrow bridge connects the sets of towers. Snapping our fill of photos, we descended using the spiral stairs in the opposite tower from our ascent. As we wound down, we were greeted with small balconies that jutted out affording views of the fantastical stone working enveloping the building. Gaudì was a master at incorporating flora and fauna in his design…though everything has well thought meaning. Before his death (getting hit by municipal trolley ironically), most of the church had been planned in 3D plaster models. Though the civil war brought destruction to these plans, most were saved and pieced painstakingly back together. The project continues apace with fervent Gaudì followers carrying on his work and imbuing their own interpretations where necessary.


After reaching the bottom, we entered an exhibit explaining the symbolism and inspiration employed by Gaudì…trees with branches became columns…fruit became finials…palm
fronds became capitals…snakes and alligators became drain spouts.


Yet another exhibit in the crypt area described the history and ongoing work to bring this house of God into being. From the use of small sand bags attached to wire to get a sense of how soaring vaults will bear weight to modern CNC machines that rout out molds of new work, the story of this site is intriguing. The exhibit culminates with a view of Gaudì’s grave in the crypt under in the Carmine chapel.


Returning back to the church, we wandered again seeing new details and the changing light as the day started to wane and the sun beginning to dip low enough on the horizon to send shimmering beans of light across the floor and against soaring columns. It was definitely meant to be a monument that evolves thru the day with the Nativity side in the east and Ascension in the west. A quick trip would never do this architecture justice. Fortunately, we were in no rush, so we stayed until closing time was upon us. Exiting, we moved across the street for a late mid-day snack watching the golden rays of sunset move across the stone walls as the sun retreated upon the horizon.


With a magical day behind us, we walked back towards our apartment discussing the wonder of Gaudì. Without seeing the Sagrada, his full genius could never be appreciated. We look toward to returning again to see the progress towards completion…and God willing…the finished ensemble.

(Note that as I’m writing this entry tonight, Barcelona and Madrid are tied up 1-1 at the half in their annual rival match. Frankly, the city may descend into chaos with a goal on either side.


After a leisurely Sunday morning with pastries and some reading, we ventured off in the Raval. Random winding streets took us into a hidden courtyard. A small fountain in the center held several deep-green limes from the low trees lining the courtyard.


Hopped a 2€ funicular that lifted us halfway up the steep ridges of the Montjuïc park. Committed at that point, we dropped another 7€ on a sky tram (the Telefèric de Montjuïc), which swept us the rest of the way up the hill.


Perched on top of this strategic hill is the historic Castell del Montjuïc, a former military fortress, with successive rings of steep brick walls. The central fortress has a broad brick roof…very warm on a sunny afternoon! Spectacular 360-degree views of the city…including our first direct views of the Mediterranean and the expansive port of Barcelona. Counted at least four massive cruise ships in port. We grabbed a bottle of water and a crusty cheese sandwich from a lunch stand pumping out club tunes. A black cat wandered beneath the tables looking for a snack.


Our downhill trek was pleasant as we wove to connect shady paths. Stopped briefly at the whimsical Font Màgica, with Gaudí-esque pools spilling noisily one into the next. Continuing down, we zig-zagged through the lush gardens. Found a tucked away seated zip line and took a few rides. Fun…and unexpected to be sure. Finally made our way down the final paths and steps to the city below.


All that walking…definitely time for a beer at Ocaña. Very refreshing.


After a short rest in the apartment, we turned to the Raval for dinner. Hoards of football fans spilled out of bars everywhere, craning their necks to watch Tucked-away televisions. Cheers and some firecrackers as Barcelona scored to pull ahead 2-1.


Found a cozy plaça with a pizza place. Really wonderful thin, crispy pizzas. Jeff had a great one with cheese and bacon and a egg. Mine was a mild BBQ pizza with chicken. Finished off with a wonder, light tiramisu. Perfect meal to break up our tapas.


After dinner, we returned to Ocaña for a nightcap. Icy mojitos hit the spot on a pleasantly warm night. Popped into the Ocaña’s amazing nightclub in the historic basement of the building. Smooth soulful tunes with a funky beat filled brick arched ceilings.


By the way, Madrid tied it up. The game ended as a 2-2 draw. We never heard a peep from the fans. No torches or pitchforks that we have seen 🙂 Good night.

Today we headed boldly into L’Eixample, and completed the trifecta of Antoni Gaudi’s greatest hits. Well we did two and a half of them 🙂 I will explain.


After a breakfast of strong coffee and couple of meaty-cheesy-flaky pastries, we strolled the tree-lined Passeig de Gracia to Casa Batlló. Completed in 1906, the house oozes Gaudí’s signature modernist style inside and out. The balconies undulate. The interior windows are framed in carved wood mirroring natural shapes; the exterior windows are also oddly rounded but trimmed in ceramic tiles or colored class. Walls are wavy like the oceans; ceilings take on the shape of shells. And the roof…covered in colorful tiles and glass and twisted into bizarre-yet-natural shapes. The entire Casa Batlló is a museum, leaving us to wander from room to room in admiration.


A bit further up the Passeig de Gracia is an altogether different Gaudí masterpiece…Casa Milà. Compled a few years after Basa Batlló, Casa Milà is a multi-unit building. It wears it’s best features on the outside…it’s iconic monotone, undulating facade…and it’s uneven rooftop, rising and dipping around ameba-shaped interior courtyards and dotted with natural-shaped sculptures. Watch your step!! The roof provides sweeping views of the city out to the sea, and a peek at Sagrada Familia in the distance. Inside the building, the tour gives you a glimpse of the beautiful arched brick attic, and an art nouveau apartment.


We had a late lunch of croque monseiur in the Casa Milà cafe with a striking wavy ceiling.


Finally, we walked to the nearby Sagrada Familia, Gaudí’s crowning achievement. This cathedral is an icon of Barcelona…and still under construction after more than 100 years. We didn’t have time to visit the interior today…we are saving that for Monday…but we did circle the cathedral in the warm afternoon light. It is truly inspiring. Of course! By the time we headed back to the apartment, the Passeig de Gracia was teaming with locals…out for their ritual afternoon stroll.


We paused in the apartment for cold Cava (Spanish sparkling wine) and fresh peaches. So refreshing.


Dinner in the Plaça Reial tonight. Drinks at a couple of spots in the L’Eixample. We discussed the quirks of American politics with a new German friend visiting from Berlin.

After a quick coffee and pastry to jump-start the day, we set our direction for the Museu Picasso in the El Born section of the historic center…just a hair further than our Barri Gótic routes from yesterday. Passed through the busy Mercat Santa Caterina, with it’s colorful undulating roof. Found a cute teal-metal Vespa toy…a perfect memento for our Christmas tree. Turned up our noses at the long lines at the museum…no rush…the weather was just too beautiful to stop walking.


Nevertheless, just beyond the museum, we spotted an open door to a grand church. Like cats distracted by a ball of crumpled paper, we diverted from our walk and ducked into the Santa Maria del Mar. What good fortune…we stumbled on the last 15 minutes of an a cappella choir. Mesmerizing chants emanated from this motley, street-clothes-dressed group of twenty, filling the cavernous stone nave. Immediately after they finished, they rushed for the door. It was like we had witnessed a choir flash mob.


The church closed abruptly for midday siestas. So we grabbed a satisfying lunch on the adjacent Plaça Santa Maria. Patatas bravas (another yummy rendition with a spicy aoli). A wood oven pizza with artichoke, mushroom, and ham. And cold cervezas to quench our thirst. A Spanish guitarist played softly on the square. A light warm breeze.


Looped under Barcelona’s very own Arc de Triomf. Unlike the Parisian icon, this one is made of red brick and colorful ceramic tiles. Dodged dozens and dozens of bicycles trying to snap a couple of pictures.


Strolled winding paths in the pleasant Parc de la Ciutadella. A towering fountain/monument in one of the far corners: the aptly named Cascada Mamuth A cascade of water originating from marble horses above. Dragons or gargoyles spraying water in the pools far below. A golden chariot topped the display. Otherwise a peaceful park…a few of the trees showing the initial signs of autumn.


Out of curiosity, we returned to the Santa Maria del Mar just as it was re-opening for the afternoon. More free entertainment…a simple-but-beautiful wedding, complete with a dimpled ring-girl and a blushing bride in a beautiful white gown. Traditional wedding tunes belted from a hidden pipe organ. All weddings are beautiful, but there is something fairytale-ish about a wedding in a grand Roman Catholic church in Europe.


Walking back to the apartment, we were lured back to our cupcake shop from the day before. Today, we rewarded lots of walking with two cupcakes: a Katy Perry (raspberry) and a Madonna (lemon). Took a historic (and less sweet) detour to see the impressively in-tact, first century B.C. columns from the Temple of Augustus from the old Roman city of Barcio. And finally another market–the Mercat St. Joseph–delivering sensory overload. One minute your smelling fresh oranges and peaches, the next the smell of fresh fish smacks you in the face.


Yay…a break at the apartment.


For dinner we wandered in the Rival neighborhood. Found a wonderful spot…Lobo Bar…and snagged a choice outdoor seat. Fantastic tapas again tonight, including tempura asparagus with a romesco sauce, a fantastic twist on a Caprese salad with a wonderful pesto sauce, and a fried egg/jamon iberico/and potato dish. Tonight’s street entertainment? Two fire dancers. Very impressive. And maybe a sign of things to come in Morocco.


We walked off dinner in the twisting lanes of the Rival. Tiny bars spilled out onto the street around every corner. Every bar seemed full and festive. Must be the weather? Or just a normal Friday. The chaos of the Rival transitioned into the quiet, orderly, tree-lined grid of L’Eixample. A peaceful route before bed.

The end of the day always seems to get short shrift in these entries, so let’s start at the end today.


2 A.M. Approximately a three-quarter moon tonight. Fluffy clouds. Plaças are busy. Streets in the Barri Gótic are silent.


Ok. I don’t even know how to describe this in words. So, a person…on a bicycle. Covered head to toe in yellow and red flowers. Wrapped in Christmas lights. Circling the Plaça. Jeff had it right: a mini-Rose Bowl parade on a bicycle. Priceless. (On closer inspection, I have to describe him as Cee Lo Green on a bike.) OMG now he has a matching umbrella. No wait. I’m sorry…he has two flower-clad umbrellas!! He was wearing Liberace-sized “diamond” rings on every finger…but please…did you expect anything else?


We returned for refreshing mojitos at the Ocaña Café. A bit of a nip in the air tonight, but this doesn’t seem to lessen the bustle on the Plaça Reial. Tonight we sat under the historic arcades that ring the square…quite reminiscent of Venice’s Piazza San Marco, albeit on a far more intimate scale. Cute server wearing a lime green L.A. tee shirt. Stylish second-floor bathroom with a long stone sink controlled with a foot pedal overlooking the plaça arcade below. Groups of clubbers dressed to the nines, drawn to the throbbing bass from the electronica club downstairs.


We were drawn back to the Plaça Reial by fond memories of our meal the night before. Tonight we spun the dial and chose a different Plaça-side restaurant. Tonight we shared a classic paella accompanied by some manchego cheese, patatas bravas and a mushroom omelette… Dos cervezas por favor.


Before dinner, we wandered thru the Barri Gótic. Taking random side streets. Wandering into random art galleries. Discovered (and then devoured) a decadent blackberry cupcake. YUM!!


Caught a dramatic street performance. Hard to describe. A dark-haired woman…long flowing white dress. Music a mix of opera and Enya. And a chair. This woman was on the chair, under the chair, and draped over the chair in the middle of a medieval cobblestone plaza. Quite unexpected.


Toured the Museu d’Historia de Barcelona, which features a subterranean tour of the ancient Roman roots of Barcelona. Fascinating tour of well-preserved streets, walls, and sewers. Learned the many uses of urine in Roman village life.


Lunch in a quiet inner courtyard adjacent to the Museu d’Historia. A simple-but-filling potato omelet Coke Light sure hits the spot on a warm Spanish afternoon. A light breeze cooled us.


Spent a few hours touring the Catedral de Barcelonia…a fine example of Gothic architecture. We have seen dozens of big, awe-inspiring cathedrals across Europe, and this one stands up well. A highlight for us was a walk on the roof, providing a panoramic view of the city. Oh and there were big geese in the courtyard fountain.


Began our day with a warm shower, hot coffee, and a filling ham and cheese croissant. I bet this will be a grand day 🙂